Kulu ka lā: The Daily Drip - Christopher Fujimoto: Taking the World One ʻUlu at a Time

This week's Kulu ka lā (The Daily Drip) talks story with Christopher Fujimoto, a fast-track kanaka culinary artisan whose creativity in the kitchen is fueled by the 'āina. Fujimoto's passion for what's 'ono is catapulting him to the U.S. stage where he'll be presenting his 'ulu research project at the 2021 National Diversity in STEM Digital Conference this October.




Photo: Christopher Fujimoto. Left: 'Ulu Haupia Pie. Right: Curry 'Ulu and Sweet Potato Croquettes.

Profile:

Aloha mai, O Christopher Fujimoto ko'u inoa. I am a recent graduate of Kapi'olani Community College (KCC) in Culinary Arts, Pastry Arts, and the Advanced Professional Certification Program. I'm currently pursuing a certification in Sustainability (ASC), also at KCC. I love to cook, eat, go for hikes, sleep on the beach, and learn about new things everywhere I go.

What attracted you to 'ulu?

Over the past year and a half, I have done research pertaining to 'ulu (breadfruit). As a Native Hawaiian and as a chef, understanding how to keep our local interests and producers at the center is key to the future of a sustainable food industry here in Hawai'i. As Hawai'i imports, most of its produce and necessities, exploring ways to reduce imports and increase local production will be important to a Hawai'i economy independent rather than dependent. Working with 'ulu, a Polynesian canoe crop brought to the Hawaiian archipelago over 1,000 years ago, I developed a deeper understanding and reverence for what it meant to work with a local crop intently. 'Ulu has the ability to once again become a staple starch, alongside taro and 'uala. It's far healthier for us than rice or potatoes; high in complex carbohydrates, low in fat and cholesterol, gluten-free, with a moderate glycemic index. 'Ulu was a crop that was not only extremely healthy for Native Hawaiians but was also healthy for the land. Since the 'ulu grows on trees, it is one of the most sustainable starches in existence, reducing CO2 emissions and providing oxygen for the atmosphere in contrast to being a tuber starch, grown underground.

Kānaka, especially keiki, seem to have frequent sensitivities to food. Why is 'ulu a smart choice for our diet?

During my scientific research, part of my hands-on testing included cooking 'ulu it in ways beyond the typical cooking methods (mashed, chip, steamed). I found that the attitude and general acceptance of 'ulu amongst our local residents can be modified to create an affinity toward this super-starch, provided we chefs help to showcase its versatility. The results from a study I conducted suggest that 'ulu can definitely make it back into the local family home, with a little teamwork between chefs and local 'ulu farmers to get us there.

What's your dream vision for ulu's future in the next decade?

In the future, I hope to see more of our many canoe crops, indigenous, and local crops highlighted more in our food industry, helping Hawai'i to move from being dependent to independent. I dream of a sustainable Hawai'i food system that can support our local people and restore our cultural ways and mentality of truly caring for our land. We must give back what we take, and I aim to be one of the leaders in Hawai'i that gets us back to that point.

Learn more about Christopher Fujimoto's 'ulu research here. Mahalo for dropping by!